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Troubleshooting L5 & L10
Listed below are some common questions and troubleshooting guidelines for our various models. Always remember when working on a particular issue to ensure that the unit is unplugged (if applicable) and the gas is shut off. Always seek professional advise and assistance is available US/Canada toll free at 866.356.1992.
Questions and troubleshooting: L5
In order to assist our customers with support, you should learn how the unit functions and operates. Its operation is quite simple; water starts flowing through the unit. The pressure from the water (a minimum of 20 PSI) pushes against a Neoprene diaphragm inside the water regulator. This spring loaded diaphragm opens the circuit which causes the igniters to spark and also regulates the gas flow. If the unit is not functioning properly, then we will need to diagnose the problem by visiting the troubleshooting section.
Q & A's
Unit will not start/no audible clicks
Unit starts, then shuts off
The water does not get hot enough
Unit continues to click, but gas does not ignite
For some additional sales support, we have listed out some common questions regarding the L5 below:
Q. I want to mount inside my camper?
A. NO! The unit is top vented and as such, the vent gases are not filtered through a vent pipe which means the unit must be operated outside.
Q. Will it work on a 12v. supply?
A. Yes if the supply is rated at 20 PSI, sustained, and the battery is charged. We recommend using a Flojet 2.9 GPM pump rated at 50 PSI. We are currently in the process of offering a pump system as well.
Q. I want to use with existing plumbing?
A. The unit has standard ½” fittings so it is easily plumbed in to existing lines
Q. I need a longer hose.
A. As long as the hose is capable of handling the hot water. Some of our customers have used washing machine hose with a pistol grip spray nozzle.
Q. Can I use to heat my swimming pool.
A. Probably not, there is a built in safety timer set to 20 minutes. The unit is not recommended as a pool heater.
Q. Can the unit be mounted horizontally?
A. No, the unit must be vertical. The flame from the burners must go straight up or charring of the wiring can occur.
Troubleshooting:
1. Unit will not start – there are no audible clicks at startup:
a. The first thing to check is to ensure that the incoming water on the "right" side of the unit. There have been a few instances where the "inlet" and "outlet" labels have come off or have been reversed. If the incoming and outgoing are reversed, the unit will not work. The incoming is on the far right and the outgoing is in the middle.
b. The "On/Off" switch should be with the “—“ sign pushed down.
c. Are batteries in, could they be reversed?
d. Number 1 reason that the unit does not ignite is that there is not enough water pressure. You need to make sure that you have a minimum of 20 PSI of sustained water pressure.
ADJUSTMENT: Looking up at the bottom of the unit, you will see 2 oval holes in the case. The hole that is furthest on the right looks up at the water regulator where you will see two Philip head screws. Take the screw that is furthest on the right in about a ¼ or ½ turn. This will enable the unit to operate on a lower water pressure by restricting flow. Note that this is the same test and adjustment for the L10 and FVI12 models.
There is a simple test that we can help you perform if you are unaware if you have enough water pressure. Please call our tech support line at 866.356.1992 for further instructions.
e. A wire has become disconnected inside the unit during shipping. Make sure the gas is OFF and the switch is in the OFF position. The front cover is held by four screws, two top, two bottom. The knobs pull off. All the wiring is done with push together plastic connectors. They are all visible without further dismantli
ng of the unit. It should be obvious when a wire has become disconnected.
NOTE: Before attempting to remove the cover, call technical support at 866.356.1992
f. It is possible that some debris or epoxy might have entered the water regulator. Check to see if the filter screen on the water inlet is clear of debris. You can also reverse the hookup by taking your water source and hooking it up to the water outlet side and back flushing the system.
2 - Unit starts and then shuts off:
a. Check the brass fitting on the end of the regulator hose where it screws into the heater. There should be a black washer inside that fitting*. They have a tendency to fall out and remain in the plastic bag. Just push it back in. Without the washer, the pressure is not sufficient to sustain combustion.
*Note – the black rubber washer is on our older models. Our new models have a flared gas fitting and there is no need for the black rubber washer.
b. Water is being supplied by a pump or gravity and the pressure is falling as the unit is operated. When the pressure falls too far, the circuit that opens the gas valve will close.
c. High wind
d. Out of, or low on gas. Also a brand new propane bottle may have air trapped. This air messes up the fuel to air mixture in the combustion chamber. Have the customer cycle the unit on and off by starting and stopping the water flow several times, can be as many as 10, depending on the amount of trapped air. If this doesn't clear the air then the tank must be purged.
The easiest way to get rid of this is to close the valve on the tank, undo the hose from the heater, take the tank and regulator to a safe place. Open the tank valve for several seconds and let gas escape along with the air mixed with the gas. Close the gas valve on the tank and re attach to the heater.
e. One of the ignition sensors is bent and/or too close to the burner. Look to ensure that the ignition pins and the heat sensor are completely vertical and they do a 90 degree to the back of the box. If they are not straight (i.e. a 45 degree angle) then you can straighten them with pliers. Please call technical support at 866.356.1992 for assistance with this matter.
f. The thermocouple is either too high or too low to complete the circuit. Check to ensure that the thermocouple is flush with the hole in the heat exchanger. Please call technical support at 866.356.1992 for assistance with this matter.
e. The gas sensor wire might have come loose or is no longer connected. Please call technical support at 866.356.1992 for assistance with this matter.
3 – The water does not get hot enough:
a. Check the brass fitting on the end of the regulator hose where it screws into the heater. There should be a black washer inside that fitting. They have a tendency to fall out and remain in the plastic bag. Just push it back in. Without the washer, the pressure is not sufficient to sustain combustion*.
*Note – the black rubber washer is on our older models. Our new models have a flared gas fitting and there is no need for the black rubber washer.
b. You are operating the unit above 6,000 feet. While it has been field tested up to 7,200 feet, we only recommend using it below elevations of 5,500-6,000 feet.
c. Look into the viewer panes (3 teardrop shaped windows on the front cover) to see if there is a blue flame. If the flame is yellow, and you have eliminated potential causes “a” and “b”, there could be a cracked gas regulator.
4 – The unit continues to click during operation but does not ignite:
a. While extremely rare, we have seen where the gas solenoid has gone bad. The solution is to replace the solenoid. Please call technical support at 866.356.1992 for assistance with this matter.
b. There is no gas supplied, the gas is turned off.
*Also, please check with the manual for other troubleshooting tips.
Questions and troubleshooting: L10
The operation of the L10 is the same as that of the L5, as such, many of the same questions and troubleshooting sections will be identical. We have listed further questions on when one would want to opt for the L10 instead of the L5 below:
Q & A's
Unit will not start/no audible clicks
Unit starts, then shuts off
The water does not get hot enough
Unit continues to click, but gas does not ignite
Q. I want to mount inside my camper
A. NO! The unit is top vented and as such, the vent gases are not filtered through a vent pipe which means the unit must be operated outside.
Q. Will it work on a 12v. supply?
A. Yes if the supply is rated at 35 PSI and the battery is charged. We recommend using a Flojet 2.9 GPM pump rated at 50 PSI. We are currently in the process of offering a pump system as well.
Q. I want to use with existing plumbing?
A. The unit has standard ½” fittings so it is easily plumbed in to existing lines
Q. I need a longer hose.
A. As long as the hose is capable of handling the hot water. People have used washing machine hose with a pistol grip spray nozzle.
Q. Can I use to heat my swimming pool?
A. Probably not, there is a built in safety timer set to 20 minutes. The unit is not recommended as a pool heater.
Q. Can the unit be mounted horizontally?
A. No, the unit must be vertical. The flame from the burners must go straight up or charring of the wiring can occur.
Q: How do I know if I need the L5 or the L10?
A: Two simple questions; are you ever going to need more than one water appliance operating at any given time (i.e. a shower and a sink). If so, you will need the L10. Also, the L10 is much more wind resistant than the L5 due to the cosmetic makeup of the case.
Q: Can I mount this to a plastic sided wall?
A: We do not recommend mounting this to any vinyl or other plastic sided wall due to the possibility of defamation.
Q: What are my clearances?
A: We recommend a minimum of 36” from the top of the rain cap, 12” on either side and a 2” clearance on the back. This can be accomplished by a 2x4 or other similar mounting bracket.
Q: Can I install this inside with a vent pipe?
A: No. The unit is a natural draft unit. This means that there is no fan or other exhaust mechanism that will force the exhaust gas out of the unit. The unit would require a minimum of 32” of vertical vent pipe for the unit to draft.
Troubleshooting:
1. Unit will not start – there are no audible clicks at startup:
a. The first thing to check is to ensure that the incoming water on the "right" side of the unit. There have been a few instances where the "inlet" and "outlet" labels have come off or have been reversed. If the incoming and outgoing are reversed, the unit will not work. The incoming is on the far right and the outgoing is in the middle.
c. Are batteries in, could they be reversed?
d. Number 1 reason that the unit does not ignite is that there is not enough water pressure. Municipal water should supply enough water pressure. Most 12v pumps like ShurFlo/Flojet work well. Whatever the brand they use, it should be the models with a rated pressure of 40 PSI or greater.
ADJUSTMENT: Looking up at the bottom of the unit, you will see 2 a “slit” in the case where the front and back come together. Locate the water regulator where you will see two Philip head screws. Take the screw that is furthest on the right (larger screw) in about a ¼ or ½ turn. This will enable the unit to operate on a lower water pressure by restricting flow.
NOTE: Before attempting to remove the cover, call technical support at 866.356.1992
e. A wire has become disconnected inside the unit during shipping. Make sure the gas is OFF. The front cover is held by six screws, four on top, two on bottom. The knobs pull off. All the wiring is done with push together plastic connectors. They are all visible without further dismantling of the unit. It should be obvious when a wire has become disconnected.
f. It is possible that some debris or epoxy might have entered the water regulator. Check to see if the filter screen on the water inlet is clear of debris. You can also reverse the hookup by taking your water source and hooking it up to the water outlet side and back flushing the system.
2 - Units starts, then shuts off:
A. Check the brass fitting on the end of the regulator hose where it screws into the heater. There should be a black washer inside that fitting*. They have a tendency to fall out and remain in the plastic bag. Just push it back in. Without the washer, the pressure is not sufficient to sustain combustion.
*Note – the black rubber washer is on our older models. Our new models have a flared gas fitting and there is no need for the black rubber washer.
B. Water is being supplied by a pump or gravity and the pressure is falling as the unit is operated. When the pressure falls too far, the circuit (Item “J” on the diagram from section VI) will close.
C. High wind
D. Out of, or low on gas. Also a brand new propane bottle may have air trapped. This air messes up the fuel to air mixture in the combustion chamber. Have the customer cycle the unit on and off by starting and stopping the water flow several times, can be as many as 10, depending on the amount of trapped air. If this doesn't clear the air then the tank must be purged.
The easiest way to get rid of this is to close the valve on the tank, undo the hose from the heater and take the tank and regulator to a safe place. Open the tank valve for several seconds and let gas escape along with the air mixed with the gas. Close the gas valve on the tank and re attach to the heater.
E. One of the ignition sensors (item “D” from the diagram in section VI) is bent and/or too close to the burner. Look to ensure that the ignition pins and the heat sensor are completely vertical and they do a 90 degree to the back of the box. If they are not straight (i.e. a 45 degree angle) then you can straighten them with pliers.
F. The thermocouple is either too high or too low to complete the circuit. Check to ensure that the thermocouple (item “D” in the diagram from section IV) is flush with the hole in the heat exchanger.
G. The gas sensor wire (looks like a black ground wire on the gas regulator flange might have come loose or is no longer connected.
. There is a faulty heat or oxygen sensor. This is usually diagnosed by having them take the front case off of the unit and let it run. If it continues to operate, then one of the sensors and/or the wire harness needs to be replaced. This may also be caused by insufficient clearance on the back of the unit where the majority of air intake is.
3 – The water does not get hot enough:
a. Check the brass fitting on the end of the regulator hose where it screws into the heater. There should be a black washer inside that fitting*. They may have a tendency to fall out and remain in the plastic bag. Just push it back in. Without the washer, the pressure is not sufficient to sustain combustion.
*Note – the black rubber washer is on our older models. Our new models have a flared gas fitting and there is no need for the black rubber washer.
b. You are operating the unit above 6,000 feet. While it has been field tested up to 7,200 feet, we only recommend using it below elevations of 5,500-6,000 feet.
c. Look into the viewer panes (middle horizontal windows on the front cover) to see if there is a blue flame. If the flame is yellow, and you have eliminated potential causes “a” and “b”, there could be a cracked gas regulator.
4 – The unit continues to click during operation but does not ignite:
a. While extremely rare, we have seen where the gas solenoid has gone bad. The solution is to replace the solenoid. Please contact technical support at 866.356.1992 for assistance.
b. There is no gas supplied, the gas is turned off.
*Also, please check with the manual for other troubleshooting tips.
